Assessment of ancient techniques of natural dyeing in the provinces of Loja and Azuay in the south of Ecuador

Abstract

The aim of this study was to revalue the ancient techniques of natural dyeing and to contribute to the viability of this important intangible cultural heritage. In order to achieve  this goal, the places where currently natural dyeing are still practiced were identified, it was determined some of the plant species that are commonly used: Lomatia irsuta (Garau), Juglans neotropica (walnut), Alnus glutinosa (Alder), Brachyotum confertum (Killuyuyo) ), Usnea sp. (Old man's beard), Bidens pilosa (Shirán) and the animal species Dactylopius coccus (Cochineal) from which the cochineal dye is extracted. The techniques were recovered and optimized based on factors such as temperature, time, pH, mordant class and amount of vegetable. 21 treatments were performed grounded on the methodology of the artisans and 50 treatments with variation of the most influential factors. The dyes were applied to alpaca fiber and sheep wool. 71 shades were obtained, ranging from intense yellow to pink, flesh, orange, and dark brown. They were classified as interesting tones due to the apparent intensity they presented, to those obtained from the application of the dye extracted from Brachyotum confertum, Neotropical Jungles and Dactylopius coccus. Control tests such as the strength of color to light, manual washing and rubbing showed that the dyeing with most of the species used had satisfactory results according to the grayscale assessment to measure the color change.